2020 was a year to forget, but one we’ll always remember. COVID-19 was the big story of the year with lockdowns, stay-at-home-orders, restaurant industry devastation, and hundreds of thousands of deaths. Fires ripped through the wine countries of California, Oregon, and Australia while believable reports of sexual abuse ripped through the Court of Master Sommeliers. Of course, I shouldn’t ignore that we also had protests, riots, and an ugly, protracted political election.
With all the challenges and trauma of the year, it became necessary to focus on community, friendship, and the human connections. These moments were few but precious. Risk could be limited, but not fully removed. For a lover of wine, I sanctified these moments, by embracing special wines that in a previous season might have been deemed too special for a simple dinner with a friend.
In 2020, the motto became, “Drink the Good Stuff!”
What made wines memorable in 2020 is something that we often forget. The purpose of wine is to lubricate human connections with beauty, grace, and an intimate interaction with the world around us.
Here are 12 wines listed in the order I experienced them.
Bonny Doon Vineyard 2007 Le Cigare Volant
Having sold in January 2020, one of the greatest Rhone-varietal advocates in California is not what it was when I worked there. Under new management, many of the beautiful older wines were sold at extreme discounts.
This beautiful Chateauneuf-inspired wine was absolutely singing in 1.5L magnum. Wild, primal, earthy, and exotic. It reminded my why this was arguably California’s most underrated wine.
Hervé Souhaut 2018 La Souteronne
It was the night before Ohio closed down restaurants and last time I would have dinner in a restaurant for over 10 months, but I didn’t know it at the time. I was dining with Mike Gregg, the excellent Sommelier at Basil Pizza & Wine Bar in Perrysburg, at one of my favorite Cincinnati restaurants - Please.
This Gamay from the Northern Rhone is a cult classic of the Natural Wine Community. Juicy, smoky, and delicious with lots of wild red fruits. Superb!
Smith-Madrone 2016 Cook’s Flat Reserve
2020 was the year that every winery tried to go digital. The most memorable was a virtual ‘influencer’ tasting with Stuart Smith, Founder & General Partner of Smith-Madrone.
A red blend patterned after Bordeaux, this is a seriously luxurious taste of Napa Valley’s Mountains with just enough structure to keep from descending into goo. Pretty great stuff.
Champagne Bollinger 2011 ‘James Bond Edition’
Covid did a number on the movie industry as well with many films delayed, including the new James Bond film. This bottle was originally meant to be opened the night of the release, but when surprise synchronicity put my James Bond-loving friends and I in the same place on a Saturday afternoon, I knew this had to be opened.
I’m glad I didn’t wait, because this is a gorgeous Champagne. Full-bodied, yeasty, and rich with crystalline bubbles that reflect the sunlight. It was wonderful to share it.
Raft Wines 2019 Counoise
My good friend, Thea Dwelle of Luscious Lushes turned me on to this boutique woman-owned winery. I’m glad she did.
Bright and frivolous! This low-alcohol red is almost transparent. If the ‘Manic Pixie Dream Girl’ could be a wine, this Counoise is she. So much fun!
Dr. F Weins-Prüm 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett
Another casualty of Covid was one of Cincinnati’s finest restaurants: Bauer Farm Kitchen an elevated German place run by the excellent Jackson Rouse.
This Riesling came from their wonderfully eclectic wine collection. While very youthful at 9 years old, the wine shows off a fusion of dense stone, exotic melon, yellow apples, and wisps of petrol.
Suavia Soave Classico ‘Le Rive’
Dinner parties that in 2019 were a dozen people became socially distanced groups of four in 2020.
This was the precious last bottle of one of Italy’s great white wineries. I’ve produced two videos on my wine show during my visit to Italy in 2012. Here & Here.
I don’t remember the vintage, but it was no younger than 2010. This oaked interpretation of Gargenega had aged like fine White Burgundy. Dense, layered, complex, and profound.
d’Arenberg 2010 Shiraz ‘J.R.O. Afflatus’
Like it did for many others, Covid destroyed my travel plans. The blessing here was the ability to spend that time with family instead. My father grilled steaks and I decided to “Drink the Good Stuff.”
This is insanely old-vine Shiraz (1912) from McLaren Vale. I first was exposed to this in 2014, when visiting Australia for my MBA. It is one of the finest Syrah/Shiraz made anywhere in the world.
Dry herbs. Bitter chocolate. Dense black fig. Eucalyptus. Ridiculously long finish. Wow!
Penfolds 1997 Grange
In late summer, as COVID was apparently waning, a few of us tried to get together for an outdoor gourmet dinner. Almost everything we opened that night could have made this list, but the 1997 Grange was the standout.
I love rooting for underdog wines, but it often good to be reminded that legends are expensive and respected for a reason. This is a monumental wine. Both an Aussie Ur-Shiraz and completely distinctive bottle.
Lucien Le Moine 2014 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Hospice De Beaune: Cuvée General Muteau’
Another expensive legendary winery showing that it was worth every dollar. I opened this with two very good friends from Pittsburgh. A silence - pregnant with awe and beauty - came over the entire room.
This is kind of experience that inspires you to throw money at Burgundy for a lifetime. I won’t try to describe the taste. It just wouldn’t be fair to the wine.
Domaine Tempier 2018 Bandol Rosé
Lucie ‘Lulu’ Peyraud, Matriarch of France's Domaine Tempier, died at 102. Her story and the quality of her wines were instrumental in creating my fascination with the world of wine.
As usual, this rosé was wild and intense without ever losing the freshness. Cheers Lulu! Thanks for the inspiration.
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
There was obviously no big birthday party in November, but instead some delicious wine and cheese with a close friend. So why not open a birth-year wine?
A bit of the barnyard funkiness but quite a bit of black fruit left. Well balanced with cigar box and a bit of greenery. A lot better than most 1978’s I’ve opened.
Disclosure 1: At the time of this writing, I work for a wholesale distributor that represents some of these wines in Ohio and Kentucky. Neither my representation of these wines or lack thereof, affects this list in any way.
Disclosure 2: The wines on this list were a combination of promotional samples, purchased at discount due to my industry status, tasted with friends who purchased them, or purchased by myself at full price.